View Full Version : Turbo
JetBlack
11-27-2008, 06:39 AM
Some very good turbo basics, math included:
http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31 ... 20Maps.htm (http://www.mygen.com/users/dbruce/myz31/TurboMaps/L28ET%20Engine%20Air%20Flow%20and%20Turbo%20Compre ssor%20Maps.htm)
This is from a guy over on SpokaneSpeed.net:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn300/dbuschhorn/myenginemap.jpg
Oops, it looks like the page cut off some specifics, so here's the direct link to the pic:
http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn30 ... inemap.jpg (http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn300/dbuschhorn/myenginemap.jpg)
Good info here:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/turbotech.html
Also BOOST_ADDICT, on Spokanespeed.net says, "The best info on turbocharging I've found to date is a book by Corky Bell entitled, "Maximum Boost." You can find it at Barnes and Noble or Borders pretty easy, and its fairly cheap."
Arsenal
12-03-2008, 10:09 PM
Ha ha I'll second that. Maximum boost is a great book, I've read it 3 or 4 times and to this day still use it as a reference.
Backwoodz Tuner
12-15-2008, 11:34 PM
Those are some good links. I figured i'd share a few of my favorite turbo info sites with you all.:geek:
http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo.html
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_projects/
http://www.evans-tuning.com/techarticle_engine_management_comp.html
cocobitzz
01-25-2009, 11:48 AM
Anyone have good turbo fact links for nissans/toyotas/etc? those are all good shit, but some non honda facts would help some of us alot.
Backwoodz Tuner
01-25-2009, 12:49 PM
Not all of the links I posted are for honda. Did you check any of them out?
gustav129
01-25-2009, 01:06 PM
Anyone have good turbo fact links for nissans/toyotas/etc? those are all good shit, but some non honda facts would help some of us alot.
Turbo science is the same no matter what it's for, a diesel big rig to a compact import.
Brian
01-25-2009, 01:29 PM
Turbo science is the same no matter what it's for, a diesel big rig to a compact import.
the truth shall set you free
gustav129
01-25-2009, 02:50 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzYl3cF-xMU
You could put this turbo on a Honda too, but it's only gonna be a dyno queen. A turbo that size is for a Big Rig.
Brian
01-25-2009, 03:36 PM
goddamn that thing is HUGE.
LOL @ the guy that about got his hand taken off
72corvette
01-29-2009, 10:30 AM
Anyone have good turbo fact links for nissans/toyotas/etc? those are all good shit, but some non honda facts would help some of us alot.
What do you wnt to know about toyota?
i have to agree when it comes to turbo, just basic turbo info make doesnt matter...when you get into actually wanting to turbo and get the info usually the best thing to do is find a forum and look at what other people have done...what jetblack posted was more basic info about turbos and that type of thing not applications
Domesticated
01-29-2009, 11:31 AM
well the best way to choose a turbo is figure out what airflow you need through a certain powerpand and find a turbo map that fits you cfm flow closest to the inside of the turbo maps most effecient range
72corvette
01-29-2009, 11:35 AM
OR just buy my Garrett GT17 hahahahahaha i need money to buy the Bee*R.
2fast4usteeley
01-29-2009, 01:21 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzYl3cF-xMU
You could put this turbo on a Honda too, but it's only gonna be a dyno queen. A turbo that size is for a Big Rig.
That cars engine isnt going to have that long of a life!!! but still kinda cool
cocobitzz
01-29-2009, 04:43 PM
i have to agree when it comes to turbo, just basic turbo info make doesnt matter...when you get into actually wanting to turbo and get the info usually the best thing to do is find a forum and look at what other people have done...what jetblack posted was more basic info about turbos and that type of thing not applications
i completely agree.
OR just buy my Garrett GT17 hahahahahaha i need money to buy the Bee*R.
why do you want a Bee R?
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:11 PM
They sound amazing. it seems like a must for drifting my mr2.
They sound amazing. it seems like a must for drifting my mr2.
NO.
nonono.
no.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:16 PM
why??????????????????????
i had one.
i sold it for a reason.
you have to run your car without a cat in order for it to get that bang and fire shit. even then, you're wreaking so much havoc on your valvetrain especially, but everything on your engine.
here's a testimonial from my friend gerard, when I was contemplating putting it on my 1J:
Dont use Bee-R. . . they are gay and cause ignition interference, are hard on the valvetrain depending on how you set them up. . And y would you want to limit you redline BEFORE your stock redline.. ? ?
Bee-R = JDM RICE. .
I've taken off 3 for customers now. . after install ppl are like "my car doesn't run the same.. or it breaks up on the top end. . etc. .a bunch of little intermittent problems come up all for the sake of some popping, flaming, fake craziness. . If you want flames and popping and shit. . get a GT35/264 or higher cams 1000cc injectores and some management . . then you can make the ulnloaded, off-throttle portion from redline down to 4000rpm super rich. . That way when you let off anywhere form 4 grand and up it will be followed by either huge flames. . or pops and bangs.
For realz. .
G.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:27 PM
i have an equal lenth tubular manifold, 3" DP and 3" straight back.. problem solved. :)
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:28 PM
and id want to limit mine b4 stock so i dont float the valves or cause any damage.
i have an equal lenth tubular manifold, 3" DP and 3" straight back.. problem solved. :)
did you read ANY of my post?
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:29 PM
the whole thing :)
the explosions and interference it causes with the ignition should be enough for you to stay away.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:34 PM
you would think haha. ya its terrible for the exhaust valves. but i imagine thats all. im more considered about keeping the turbo fully spooled while sideways. my friend has one on his sr for drifting and loves it.
you would think haha. ya its terrible for the exhaust valves. but i imagine thats all. im more considered about keeping the turbo fully spooled while sideways. my friend has one on his sr for drifting and loves it.
who's your friend?
only person i know of with a bee r is roland.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:36 PM
walker. from snohomish.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:36 PM
he also has a yellow r32
didn't know he had one too.
but it works best on nissans, which is why only nissans have it.
gustav129
01-29-2009, 09:38 PM
Bee 2, is that like those flame throwers that stall your engine ignition to dump raw fuel into the exhaust, and spark it with a spark plug at the tip?
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:39 PM
yet they also have a line for toyota...did you ever read import tuner last coupple a month i think it was. MK3 supra...tons of mods. had a Bee*R
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:40 PM
Bee 2, is that like those flame throwers that stall your engine ignition to dump raw fuel into the exhaust, and spark it with a spark plug at the tip?
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO thats hot rod bullshit.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:42 PM
here:
This is Bee*R’s popular two-stage ignition cutting rev-limiter. It is used to prevent damage arising from over-revving your engine. Part of the reason for its popularity is the large flames and loud bangs it produces from the exhaust when active!
The way in which it works differs from the factory rev limiter in that it is an ignition cut, as opposed to a fuel cut. The reason for this is because if an engine (particularly turbocharged) regularly hits a fuel-cut rev limit (such as in high performance driving, or particularly drifting) engine damage can arise due to the lean condition produced when the original ECU shuts off the fuel pump. The BEE*R rev-limiter allows fuel to pass into the engine still, limiting engine speed by disabling the ignition signal. The Bee*R rev limiter is fully adjustable in 500rpm increments, for safety reasons allowing only a lower rev-limit to be configured than standard. If you have spent a lot of money tuning your engine, or are running at high RPM’s for extended periods of time, it could be recommended to run a lower rev-limit to prolong engine life. Both Formula 1 and JGTC cars use ignition cutting rev limiters, so it is a fully race proven concept.
The Bee*R can also be used as a “two stage rev limiter”, as an aid for launching your car. The Bee*R is configurable for two different rev-limits. A lower rev limit can be activated by a switch, the handbrake switch often being used. This configurable lower limit, can be set to the optimum RPM to launch your particular car from in 500rpm increments. When the handbrake is released, the usual rev limit comes into action, allowing quick launches, and full performance down the strip.
The Bee*R rev-limiter has another final neat feature. The gain control knob allows you to adjust the frequency of the ignition cut. This in turn changes the frequency and sound of the flames and bangs from your exhaust!
Available for use with all rotary, 4 and 6 cylinder engines. (No V8 application)
NEW IN- Type H Rev-limiter suitable for use with Honda’s!
Please select the appropriate type from the list below.
Note: We would recommend the fitment of a Cat. Replacement pipe when fitting this item if not already fitted to the vehicle otherwise the catalyser may become damaged over time when the device is active. A cat replacement pipe will also allow flames to become more visible from the exhaust when the device is active. See our exhausts section for these. Some addional wiring may be required if using in conjunction with an aftermarket ECU.
yet they also have a line for toyota...did you ever read import tuner last coupple a month i think it was. MK3 supra...tons of mods. had a Bee*R
i don't read those magazines, didn't get the memo.
but whatever, do what you like.
gustav129
01-29-2009, 09:47 PM
Looked it up.
Basically the same thing, but you don't have to push a button to cut off the ignition, which dumps fuel into the exhaust and ignite the flames.
Here's what I'm talking about for a third of the price:
http://www.hotlicksexhaust.com/hypercart/PictureFrame.asp?Sku=Basic+Flame+Thrower+Kit+and+F inishing+Kit
Valve float usually doesn't do any damage, you just lose power. It's usually the timing belt that snaps from being stressed at high RPMs. If you are relaly worried about it, then learn throttle control.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:47 PM
not trying to be an asshole haha just saying.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:49 PM
If you are relaly worried about it, then learn throttle control.
Drifting....
silver_echo
01-29-2009, 09:58 PM
Looked it up.
Basically the same thing, but you don't have to push a button to cut off the ignition, which dumps fuel into the exhaust and ignite the flames.
Here's what I'm talking about for a third of the price:
http://www.hotlicksexhaust.com/hypercart/PictureFrame.asp?Sku=Basic+Flame+Thrower+Kit+and+F inishing+Kit
Valve float usually doesn't do any damage, you just lose power. It's usually the timing belt that snaps from being stressed at high RPMs. If you are relaly worried about it, then learn throttle control.
valve float WILL do massive damage if you have an interference engine, not so much otherwise... that is just my $.02
72corvette
01-29-2009, 09:59 PM
valve float WILL do massive damage if you have an interference engine, not so much otherwise... that is just my $.02
good news is its not a valve bender :)
gustav129
01-29-2009, 10:33 PM
The piston should just push the valve back up, not bend it, because have has no pressure behind them from the cam and lifters.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 10:37 PM
^^wrong but ok :)
its not an INTERFERENCE motor. This means that no matter what position you desire..the valves will never touch the top of the pistons because of notches in the tops of the pistons.
gustav129
01-29-2009, 10:47 PM
Valve float is when the valve springs can't keep up with the speed of the cam. It just "floats" in middle position and the lifter just slaps the back of the valve. That's in an extreme case. There's no pressure from the cam.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 10:56 PM
yes, but what causes them to bend is the piston slapping the valve. the valves open at an angle compared to the piston which just goes up and down. when it hits the valve and has to transfer all the energy/force which only has vertical momentum to a valve that wants to move diagonally most of the energy absorbed is going to try and be absorbed vertically, pushing the valve stem against the valve guide and thus bending the valve stem.
im talking if you were to break a timing belt
gustav129
01-29-2009, 11:00 PM
Here's a video of valve float in a honda caused by weak valve springs
YouTube - Valve Float
gustav129
01-29-2009, 11:02 PM
Oh I've broken a timing belt before. But there's pressure from the cam pushing the valve down, that's not valve float.
72corvette
01-29-2009, 11:05 PM
interesting video
Brian
01-29-2009, 11:53 PM
pretty cool video
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