View Full Version : Questions? Ask me!
If you have any question about washing/detailing/anything that involves your car's paint or anything ask me!
Also, we are about to start carrying all sorts of different products that can make your detailing life easier! It might be a little bit more costly than the stuff from Schucks, but it's WAY better and what (we) the pros use! Ask here or PM me if you need a suggestion for what product to use or would like to pick some up from us.
-Ty
TurboEp3
05-06-2009, 05:40 PM
hey,,,, what do you recommend for suede.... do you have any products that will work? cause i keep and looking and cant seemed to find any good products..
thanks
We have a cleaning foam that we on suede with a leather brush. Short bristles, medium stiffness. I'll try to get a picture for you this weekend.
TurboEp3
05-06-2009, 06:13 PM
thanks....
It's in a aerosol can and I think it runs about $25 per can. It works really well, though. The leather brush we use is about $15. Let me know if you'd like to give 'em a try.
Mitchness
05-06-2009, 07:16 PM
What kind of paint polish/wax do you carry, and how much per bottle?
Brian
05-06-2009, 07:33 PM
what's the best way to get rid of stuck on brake dust on rims?
What kind of paint polish/wax do you carry, and how much per bottle?
All of our polishes are for machine polishing only. We can get a glaze in which will temporarily fill scratches if that's what you're after.
For wax I recently found a REALLY good combination. If you use two coats of JetSeal (Made by Chemical Guys) and then follow up with a good carnuba wax, it's got the "glow" of a carnuba and the long last protection of a sealant. Really the best of both worlds. Sending a PM on pricing info. We use all sorts of waxes depending on the application. We have/can get jars that range from $25-$1000. It all depends on what you want. I really prefer a harder carnuba over a liquid wax. It goes on much thinner, lasts longer and gives better depth.
what's the best way to get rid of stuck on brake dust on rims?
We have (but are out of stock currently) a wheel gel that you spray on and let it dwell for up to 2 hours and a couple of brushes that we use to agitate it. That will get just about anything off. If that doesn't do it -- claybar is another option. Anything past that is beyond what we're comfortable doing without a full repaint/refinish. I/We refuse to use harsh acids on wheels.
Mitchness
05-06-2009, 08:53 PM
Claybar... on brake dust?!
WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT?!?! :idear: :mad2:
Claybar... on brake dust?!
WHY DIDN'T I THINK OF THAT?!?! :idear: :mad2:
Once one has too many contaminants from paint we demote it to wheels :)
How many waxes per year should someone perform on their car?
srtbrian
05-07-2009, 11:17 AM
Question, I just got done cutting and buffing my car, what would you say to use to get out swearlmarks.
How many waxes per year should someone perform on their car?
It really depends on the type of wax used. Some waxes will last 4-5 months on a daily driven vehicle. Some waxes will last 2 rains and the rain just takes them off. It all depends on how the surface is prepped, and the type of wax used.
Question, I just got done cutting and buffing my car, what would you say to use to get out swearlmarks.
The "cutting" and "buffing" you speak of, I'm assuming you mean you used a machine polisher and some polish and went to town. There are three main stages of polishing compound, and all should be used with a different type (density measured in ppm) There's cutting compound, which is used to remove large swirls/deep imperfections. Use this with a heavy cutting pad or a medium pad.
There's medium "Swirl remover" polish, which should be used on a medium pad. And a finishing polish, which will get rid of the last swirls and minor imperfections as well as buffer trails and holograms left by more aggressive pads/polishes.
I'm guessing you used an aggressive pad and compound and what's left over are swirl marks, buffer trails and holograms from that. You need to go down a step in polish and pad and give that a try. Also, make sure you're breaking the polish down all the way.
If you can't fix it, then it's time to look into a professional to correct any damage you may have done. I.E. Hire me.
OH. Good news. My buddy is moving out to Pullman in the next 2 months, and I'll probably be making a few trips out there a year so if anyone would like a detail or to save money on shipping by meeting up and picking up the product -- we can work that out!
silver_echo
05-07-2009, 05:19 PM
The "cutting" and "buffing" you speak of, I'm assuming you mean you used a machine polisher and some polish and went to town. There are three main stages of polishing compound, and all should be used with a different type (density measured in ppm) There's cutting compound, which is used to remove large swirls/deep imperfections. Use this with a heavy cutting pad or a medium pad.
There's medium "Swirl remover" polish, which should be used on a medium pad. And a finishing polish, which will get rid of the last swirls and minor imperfections as well as buffer trails and holograms left by more aggressive pads/polishes.
I'm guessing you used an aggressive pad and compound and what's left over are swirl marks, buffer trails and holograms from that. You need to go down a step in polish and pad and give that a try. Also, make sure you're breaking the polish down all the way.
If you can't fix it, then it's time to look into a professional to correct any damage you may have done. I.E. Hire me.
OH. Good news. My buddy is moving out to Pullman in the next 2 months, and I'll probably be making a few trips out there a year so if anyone would like a detail or to save money on shipping by meeting up and picking up the product -- we can work that out!
maybe i will ask you to take a look at my stuff and see what you would use to get the grime out of my interior... little grease stain in headliner by a-pillar(oops, my fault, had to change a tire on roadside and then accidentally put my hand up there for balance getting out), and something on the cloth covered armrests on the doors(i think maybe oil from the skin of my arm)...
maybe i will ask you to take a look at my stuff and see what you would use to get the grime out of my interior... little grease stain in headliner by a-pillar(oops, my fault, had to change a tire on roadside and then accidentally put my hand up there for balance getting out), and something on the cloth covered armrests on the doors(i think maybe oil from the skin of my arm)...
We have some great carpet cleaner and stain remover that will probably pull both of those right out. We're working on getting a steam cleaner which will definitely make quick work of them if the cleaner cannot.
silver_echo
05-07-2009, 05:25 PM
We have some great carpet cleaner and stain remover that will probably pull both of those right out. We're working on getting a steam cleaner which will definitely make quick work of them if the cleaner cannot.
well then i would ask how much you might charge to get those cleaned out... two door interior panels and the small stain on the headliner plus one small stain(what i think is chocolate, but it was there when i got the car) on the seat... that way i know about what to expect to be charged if i can't meet up with you, if it is possible to know that with you not looking at the car...
Well, that's the thing. It's very hard to know without looking/experimenting. It could take 15 minutes and be a flat rate. But if it takes 3 hours, I'm going to want to charge more than just the 15 minutes. It all depends. If it's just those things, I would say not more than $100, or so.
silver_echo
05-07-2009, 05:35 PM
Well, that's the thing. It's very hard to know without looking/experimenting. It could take 15 minutes and be a flat rate. But if it takes 3 hours, I'm going to want to charge more than just the 15 minutes. It all depends. If it's just those things, I would say not more than $100, or so.
thanks man, those are just my big things that have been keeping me stymied...
Bmer89
05-23-2009, 10:25 PM
Ok, when I wax my car by hand using the supplied applicator, and wipe if off when dry with a microfiber, I end up with circular marks showing where I applied the wax. What am I doing wrong? Too much wax? Not dry enough? Thanks for your help in advance!
Oh and the wax I used was Mcguires Cleaning Wax.
Here's a pic of my hood, although the swirls don't show up as well. You can see it better near the bottom.
http://i381.photobucket.com/albums/oo253/Bmer89/0523091834.jpg
Bmer89
05-30-2009, 06:57 PM
somebody help meeehh before I have to wax again :thumbsup:
It looks like you could be applying it in the direct sunlight. That would cause a problem. Or you're letting it haze for too long, or not long enough.
I'm not too familiar with over the counter products, but I've never been a huge fan of cleaner waxes to begin with.
It also could be marring from the microfiber cloth. Really hard to tell from the picture.
Bmer89
05-30-2009, 07:09 PM
Drat... it's the sun. I has no shade :frown5:
Thanks for the reply! Any recommendations then?
Park in the shade, let the surface cool down... apply the wax again and be sure to let it haze (I think that's what the directions say) then remove excess with the fluffiest MF towel you have.
Bmer89
05-30-2009, 07:23 PM
:skep: I said there is no shade. Garage is full of crap and the trees are useless for shade hahaha. I meant more product recommendations...
Well, with every product, you want the car in the shade. The hot paint dries them out too quickly. Mayhaps it's time to clean out the garage?
Bmer89
05-30-2009, 11:43 PM
Ok thanks guys, I'll try and hunt down some shade. And the garage is full of my parents junk. Can't put it anywhere because our storage unit is full too... I'll figure something out.
While we're on waxing, when do you know when it's dry enough to take off, and how much is too much? How many coats is good to apply in one session? The instructions on the back of the bottle are always pretty vague IMO. Your help is always appreciated!
With a cleaner wax, it has tons of solvents in it, so you're not going to get more than one coat. If you were to try another coat, the solvents would just remove the previous one.
And I usually do a "swipe test" on wax. Apply it, let it haze (if required) and swipe my finger. If it's still oily, it needs more time. If it wipes fairly clean on the surface, it's ready/nearly ready.
Bmer89
05-31-2009, 08:15 AM
Ok thanks. The only reason I even used the cleaner wax is because it came with my claybar kit. I usually use the Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0.
NXt still has a fair amount of solvents in it, too.
Bmer89
05-31-2009, 06:23 PM
Good to know. So what you're saying is I need some pro stuff. How much would I have to fork over for the quality?
One of the first waxes we got that I was really happy with is called Luso Orro. It'll set you back about $45-$50 for the pot, but I've waxed over 20 cars with the jar and it's maybe half gone. It goes on SUPER thin.
Pete's 53' from Chemical Guys is around $40, also good for the money.
Send me a PM if you have anymore questions.
Bmer89
05-31-2009, 10:31 PM
Great info, thanks a million!
Domesticated
06-26-2009, 10:12 PM
how much do you think it would cost to have all this damage fixed exept the hood and trunk,
http://www.nwtuner.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1838&highlight=body+damage
and then repainted same color plus some thicker flake? im not worried about the hood and trunk cause ill eventually go carbon?
I don't do any body work, I just detail. I can't give an estimate but it looks like it'd be pretty pricey.
Bmer89
01-10-2010, 11:41 PM
Random wax question.... how cold can it be out side and the wax will still set properly??
It varies from product to product. I can get away with waxing my car 2 or 3 times a year (so can usually avoid waxing during the coldest part of the year) -- but as long as it's not freezing you should be okay. Use a garage if you can to help get past the cold.
A protip: never let any of your car washing stuff freeze!
Bmer89
01-11-2010, 11:26 PM
A protip: never let any of your car washing stuff freeze!
That happened once.... wash detergent, wax, and quick detail. Are they bad now?
That happened once.... wash detergent, wax, and quick detail. Are they bad now?
They're probably fine -- but they tend to chemically change and separate once they've frozen. It's weird.
Bmer89
01-13-2010, 02:34 PM
That's good, most of that stuff was nearly full haha. But I'll definitely remember to not leave them in the garage when it's cold ;)
Have you ever used P&S products?
Have you ever used P&S products?
I haven't even heard of them, so no. I'm pretty happy with my current product lineup. There's some new stuff a couple of manufacturers are coming out with that I'm excited for :P
$1,200 pot of wax?!:cornut: I have a 2oz sample of it, it's nuts!
I haven't even heard of them, so no. I'm pretty happy with my current product lineup. There's some new stuff a couple of manufacturers are coming out with that I'm excited for :P
$1,200 pot of wax?!:cornut: I have a 2oz sample of it, it's nuts!
I should be able to get a good discount on the P&S stuff I'll prolly order some and see how I like it, I figure its worth a shot.
Dang that $1,200 pot of wax... now I kinda want some lol. You after you use it post the results.
I should be able to get a good discount on the P&S stuff I'll prolly order some and see how I like it, I figure its worth a shot.
Dang that $1,200 pot of wax... now I kinda want some lol. You after you use it post the results.
I asked a few colleagues what they think of the P&S line... it's a bulk line aimed at "volume" detailers by what we can gather. A lot of the boutique products will cost more but will deliver better results.
I can give my suggestions and recommendations on anything you need.
And the wax is fantastic! I used some on the fender of my wife's car when I did a massive paint correction in Pullman. Holy hell it's amazing to deal with. On easy, off easy and an incredible look. I'm gonna see if one of my vendors will honor my discount on it :D
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