Check engine light.

[MetaEnder]

Alright, so I had my check engine light pop up today. The previous owner told me that it had popped up on him too, had the dealer check it out and said it was the either the O2 sensor or MAF sensor (one or the other).

Either way, I don't have a scanner, do you know anywhere that'll give me the code? Also I know that some places'll give you the code, but wont know what it means since they're not a "Honda" place specifically, but I think I can figure it out online.

Would a Subaru or Toyota dealership give me a code? Or just a random mechanic somewhere maybe?

[MetaEnder]

I think I'm just gonna cruise down to Lewiston and have Autozone give me the code.

Does Shucks or NAPA do it? JW, since they're in town, ha.

[ben_cb7]

i think schucks does

[Domesticated]

ha, i could have done it for you, i has the software. when you brink my dvd back i can do it for you and even do some bench and 1/4 mile testing

[MetaEnder]

ha, i could have done it for you, i has the software. when you brink my dvd back i can do it for you and even do some bench and 1/4 mile testing

That could be fun, ha. Is the track open yet? I've never been there, do you have to register or pay or anything?

Maybe when I bring it back we can get the reading, and if it is the O2 sensor go and pick one up and swap it in. I don't have jack stands or anything here, ha.

[Domesticated]

i could pull your engine in a few hours. even quicker with an engine hoist.

[MetaEnder]

i could pull your engine in a few hours. even quicker with an engine hoist.

Ha! Nice. I don't think I'll have to pull the entire engine to get to just an O2 sensor (hopefully not). Might be kind of tricky if it's one of the ones in the hard to get to spots, but probably wont need to do anything that drastic.

[erik]

Shmucks in town will pull engine codes. Also, there is a Honda dealer down in Lewiston, just FYI.

[MetaEnder]

Shmucks in town will pull engine codes. Also, there is a Honda dealer down in Lewiston, just FYI.

Awesome, I'll go bug Shucks tomorrow. That's really close. I'll wait on the dealership until I have to, ha. If it's an easy to replace sensor then I'll do it myself!

Thanks man!

[silver_echo]

my suggestion is to check the MAF, as that is an easy check... pull it out, and then look at the wire inside the MAF... if it is dirty, spray it with some brake clean, let it air dry for a moment, then put it back in... i have seen cars throw MAF codes when the sensor was just dirty...


my $.02

[srtbrian]

If your MAF is bad start your car unplug it, if it dies its good. if you stays running its bad.

[Gsolo]

first thing, find out what the light is on for.....for a honda any reputable shop can tell you what code is given. Dont guess it, waste of time and money. For all you know you didn't tighten your gas cap last time you filled up.

[Gsolo]

If your MAF is bad start your car unplug it, if it dies its good. if you stays running its bad.

....what logic is this based off of?

Unplugging the MAF will set a code and engine will not run with it unplugged

[MetaEnder]

Alright, so this morning I went out to my car, retightened my gas cap and started it up. No CEL, alls well.

Went to Shucks and borrowed their OBD-II for a min and got the trouble code:

P0174: System too lean.

Checked the air filter, MAP and everything looks fine. *shrugs* Guess I'll just leave it for now. If it pops up again I'll investigate further.

[Domesticated]

....what logic is this based off of?

Unplugging the MAF will set a code and engine will not run with it unplugged

if the maf is bad the engine will try to run in a closed loop mode to try to keep itself running. so unplugging it will tell you if its running in closed loop or not. you can do the same thing if the engine is really cold, but once it get to temp it will go back into open loop

[srtbrian]

....what logic is this based off of?

Unplugging the MAF will set a code and engine will not run with it unplugged

well if he pulled codes, and the engine light is on for the MAF, its a very easy way to tell if its bad.

[srtbrian]

if the maf is bad the engine will try to run in a closed loop mode to try to keep itself running. so unplugging it will tell you if its running in closed loop or not. you can do the same thing if the engine is really cold, but once it get to temp it will go back into open loop

There is my answer to you also, Thanks Domesticated.

[JetBlack]

if the maf is bad the engine will try to run in a closed loop mode to try to keep itself running. so unplugging it will tell you if its running in closed loop or not. you can do the same thing if the engine is really cold, but once it get to temp it will go back into open loop

If it runs in a mobius loop, you're screwed.

[Domesticated]

lmao, i dont think hes been to Euclidea lately so he should be fine

[MetaEnder]

I don't think I have a MAF sensor, just a MAP...?

[RaptorReed]

Your CEL is probably just broken

[justin]

I thought it was an unspoken rule that all Hondas have to keep the CEL light on at all times.

[gotrice93]

I thought it was an unspoken rule that all Hondas have to keep the CEL light on at all times.
That's just DSM's and that is only because something is always wrong with them.

[RaptorReed]

No, having the CEL on means it works in dsms, it's when it's not lit is a problem, but that's mainly on 2G dsms.

[justin]

Every Honda I have Ever been around had a CEL light on. My DSM when running never threw a code. Just blew up.

[gotrice93]

My honda has never thrown a CEL *knocks on wood*

[justin]

You seem to be in a Rare group of hondas then! Congrats.

Anyways back to topic did you figure it out yet?

[MetaEnder]

You seem to be in a Rare group of hondas then! Congrats.

Anyways back to topic did you figure it out yet?

WELL, it went away. Not having any problems. Might've just been a weird reading from some strange gas, or something. I'm just gonna let it sit for now. I only drive about 1.6 miles a day, ha.

I'll investigate a little bit later on. Thanks for all the input!

[Domesticated]

Every Honda I have Ever been around had a CEL light on. My DSM when running never threw a code. Just blew up.

didnt you sieze the engine when your oil drain plug fell out when you were speeding late to work?

[RaptorReed]

No, it was when the oil filter removed itself from the car and that's a common issue with some filters like Fram and Wix.

My oil filter housing for instance just liked to spew oil all over my alternator, stupid sandwich cooler setup.

[justin]

At least get your facts straight when you try to say something. And I wasn't speeding I went from 70 to maybe 80 when the filter popped then there was nothing I can do. Also the motor didn't seize up it just died which could have been caused by the alt being covered in oil along with there being no oil in the motor. The only reason the car isn't running now is because I was jobless and didn't have money to fix it and I decided that since the car is down again I might as well build it up and put it back on the road when the motor is where I want it

[Gsolo]

if the maf is bad the engine will try to run in a closed loop mode to try to keep itself running. so unplugging it will tell you if its running in closed loop or not. you can do the same thing if the engine is really cold, but once it get to temp it will go back into open loop

ummm, no. And you got your loops backwards but I know what you meant.

Engine always uses airflow information, thats how load is calculated...always need to know engine load, dont always need to know a/f ratio therefor open loop basicaly uses calculated load and rpm to inject amount of fuel from its programmed table...closed loop uses O2 info to fine tune the fuel trim

[Gsolo]

my suggestion is to check the MAF, as that is an easy check... pull it out, and then look at the wire inside the MAF... if it is dirty, spray it with some brake clean, let it air dry for a moment, then put it back in... i have seen cars throw MAF codes when the sensor was just dirty...


my $.02

I have had dirty MAF sensors cause lean/rich codes....and sometimes they dont always visually look dirty. Once in awhile get one with a hair stuck to the wire, not sure how that happens . Have to throw caution out, you can screw up the sensor by cleaning it

See it way more often with aftermarket intakes...most aftermarket filters dont filter anywhere as good as OEM filters OR someone gets waayy to carried away with the filter oil.

[Gsolo]

WELL, it went away. Not having any problems. Might've just been a weird reading from some strange gas, or something. I'm just gonna let it sit for now. I only drive about 1.6 miles a day, ha.

I'll investigate a little bit later on. Thanks for all the input!

Kinda weird...gas shouldn't make any difference but I suppose you never really know sometimes.

Short of any major issues i have seen lean codes(with no other codes)pop up from MAF issues, you dont have a MAF. Can't say a MAP can't have issues probably just less likely....I would assume intake air temperature be more suspect than the MAP sensor itself. Having said that I've seen poorly designed aftermarket/homemade intakes cause ever so slightly lean conditions, just slightly changes enough of the expected parameters withing normal operation to screw up the injector control.

Also different exhaust before and at the O2 or moving the O2 placement can cause inaccurate readings...or using a generic O2 sensor not specifically designed for the application. Generally speaking, the closer to the manifold the less "holes" in the sensor...farther away the more "holes". not going to get into the technicals of it.

Just some things from experience...not sure if your car is modified at all. It always befuddles me for how sensitive OBDII is that it can't tell you why it thinks its running lean

[MetaEnder]

Kinda weird...gas shouldn't make any difference but I suppose you never really know sometimes.

Short of any major issues i have seen lean codes(with no other codes)pop up from MAF issues, you dont have a MAF. Can't say a MAP can't have issues probably just less likely....I would assume intake air temperature be more suspect than the MAP sensor itself. Having said that I've seen poorly designed aftermarket/homemade intakes cause ever so slightly lean conditions, just slightly changes enough of the expected parameters withing normal operation to screw up the injector control.

Also different exhaust before and at the O2 or moving the O2 placement can cause inaccurate readings...or using a generic O2 sensor not specifically designed for the application. Generally speaking, the closer to the manifold the less "holes" in the sensor...farther away the more "holes". not going to get into the technicals of it.

Just some things from experience...not sure if your car is modified at all. It always befuddles me for how sensitive OBDII is that it can't tell you why it thinks its running lean

Thanks all for the input. Yeah, I'm hoping it was just a weird fluke, car inhaled some strange air, and got some weird O2 readings and what not. Car isn't modified or anything, all stock, and codes haven't popped up anymore, so we'll see!

[Gsolo]

weird flukes happen sometimes...really hard to explain that to customers :(

[907DC4]

I thought it was an unspoken rule that all Hondas have to keep the CEL light on at all times.

Haha....mine only flashes at my preset shift point as a shift light...lol other than that doesnt pop on