T3 or T3/T4?

[CD5Accord]

Lookin at a turbos to buy, and i can either get this Garrett T3 for trade=to $100. or I can rebuild the one my friend has which is an off brand T3/T4. I'm only goin 8lb right now and maybe 12-15 later on. which one would be better

[justin]

It's hard to help guide you in the right direction when you have only
given us flange types.

[2.5i]

Aww what do we got here T9, T12?
http://www.asdanet.org/uploadedImages/About_ASDA/Benefits_and_Information/Gecko3.gif

It takes people so long to understand its a FREAKING FLANGE. Its a typically ricer question though, so they will just keep coming.

[RaptorReed]

Maybe it's a t25.....but those things are only worth $20. Do you have any supporting mods for a turbo? There's a little more to it than just slapping a turbo on and by the way and which car is this going on?

[2.5i]

Dude Tim, I've turboed my 89 buick lesabre, my 97 dodge neon, my lawnmower... trust me all you gots to do is slap a turbo on and BAM FAST

[RaptorReed]

Sure if it works, but it's better to do it the right way the first time around. Reliability and lifespan of the motor can play a part in how long the fun lasts though.

[2.5i]

Dude Tim, I've turbo'ed my Kawasaki 250, my Ford Pinto, my Ford Mustang 5-0, and my push mower... never have I had any of them tuned... never and vtec always cracked HARD.

[justin]

The lasabre always cracked v-TAK hellza hard!! We know what we are doing tim! We can teach you when you get back since there is no time to cram your mind with our extensive knowledge of the universe. Get on my horse.

[RaptorReed]

My amazing horse mothatrucka! Yeah maybe your vast knowledge of the galatic universe would help, I suppose in this case you don't need a turbo when you got vtek and dsm injectors anyway.

[2.5i]

Dude Tim, I got inspired last night so... I bought a T3/T4 turbo and slapped it on my BBQ.

[CD5Accord]

This is going on the Honda. I'm still learning about all this stuff. so try and hang in there if i ask stupid questions ha. So going with the Garrett T3 would be better since its name brand and already i good condition? All i'm looking for is a relatively cheap 8lb of boost. The parts im going to spend more money on: mani, turbo, ecu, and maybe a good downpipe. I'm trying to save as much money as i can so with the other parts that don't affect it as much. They say you can run 8lb on the F series with relatively no issues towards reliability so it's not meant to be a beast 400hp, just a step up from the stock 135.

[RadDsm]

Garrett T3 still doesn't say anything about how big the turbo is.

There is a Garrett T3 T25 which is a very small turbo (that sucks bawls) and there is also a Garrett T3 GT3582R (which is a 600-700whp turbo).

Do you know if its a 50trim/60trim (popular "t3" turbos) or have the measurements of the inducer/exducer wheels?

[justin]

Scratch your idea and try this. The F head you have has almost exactly the same bolt pattern as a DSM head. So go look on craigslist for a cheap OEM DSM turbo manifold. Yeah it's cast and heavy but it's better for low end. Then go get a 14b or small 16g. Either turbo will get you well past any goals you have now. They are small and spool fast so you can be all boost happy with wheel hop and torque steer. There yeah go I've done your research for you. Enjoy!

[Domesticated]

he has a point, i bought a turbo and manifold for 100 bucks. itl work on your f head

[gotrice93]

http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/1738421190.html
http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/1764726367.html

[jon]

the manifold needs to be drilled out to work on the f block...and i wouldnt recommend going with anything less than a 16g....not those shit td04 or whatever was on the stealth and shit

[Domesticated]

the 14b is tiny, even for a 2.0. the stealth turbos only work cause theres two of them. my neons got a td04 reverse flow 16g and many srt guys have seen 300+hp, a few have even reached 350 on a stock turbo

[justin]

I suggested the 14b because it is considered an upgrade on 2g DSM turbo models. People swap out the T25's and go 14b. Besideshe stated he wants to flow 8lbs with a possibility of more later. That would be perfect since they hold 10lbs from the factory and have a 7lb spring on the wastgate. The turbo would spool ultra quick and have plenty of room to to grow and add more boost while spoiling super quick. To me a 16g would be over kill at first for what he is looking to do

[erik]

"Reliability" goes out the door when slapping a turbo on an engine that isn't supposed to have one. ;)

[justin]

Your no fun Erik!

[Domesticated]

hes a power pooper

[CD5Accord]

Ill look into it. I'm sure i can find a good one at pull and save. always dsm's like that out there. thanks

[jon]

no turbos out there..they get stripped right away if the people who work there havent taken em first

[justin]

Yeah listen to ninja on that one. Go on craigslist or
eBay. Don't buy an evo turbo. They flow opposite. If you do buy from eBay don't buy a no name turbo. I have learned the hard way

[907DC4]

"Reliability" goes out the door when slapping a turbo on an engine that isn't supposed to have one. ;)

The reliability of my motor is great still for my Teg!!

[Domesticated]

your not gonna convince anyone that adding stress to an engine will allow it to last just as long. yours has only been boosted for what under a year. and arent you only running like 5lbs

[justin]

What is with your attitude lately? Lay off the dude. No one is bringing into question the longevity of a N/A motor being boosted. Everyone on this forum understands this concept. The point 907 is trying to make is that he has in fact turboed his car and it is still running in his words "great". If the person trying to boost a N/A car isn't a complete fucking moron and knew what he was doing then the car would still run well and be fairly reliable pending proper maintenance.

[Domesticated]

ya got a point, sorry man. been a real asshat lately. personal problems i guess. im just pretty stressed out. continue on fellas

[justin]

no worries dude, but you should def re read what you post before you click that submit button. no need to bring your personal problems to someone elses thread. we don't need another 6 pages of bitching over who's car is better sort of thing

[CD5Accord]

Repeat of the Rxseven deal or w/e his name was

[RaptorReed]

the 14b is tiny, even for a 2.0. the stealth turbos only work cause theres two of them. my neons got a td04 reverse flow 16g and many srt guys have seen 300+hp, a few have even reached 350 on a stock turbo

A 14B isn't that small, not when you can swap out the compressor wheel for a 16g wheel(dual blades vs 1 set of blades) and BAM you got a small 16g. 14Bs and 16Gs share the same TDO5H Housing. The Evo 3 Big 16G has a slightly bigger compressor wheel in which the housing was machined out to fit it and a 7cm Turbine housing vs the regular 6cm turbine housings found on 14Bs and regular 16Gs. Stealths/3000GTs had twin 9B stock. The smaller TDO4 housings are shared commonly among the 13B and the 13G turbos, 13Gs were mostly found in automatic dsms. A big 16g is good for 400hp.

Here's a pic for visual aids
T25 on the left, TDO5H 16G on the right (t2slow is a tiny hairdryer)
http://momentoftime.net/gst/t2516g.jpg

[CD5Accord]

so the 16g's came stock on what cars? What would be the bennefit of going 16g rather than 14g

[2.5i]

ya got a point, sorry man. been a real asshat lately. personal problems i guess. im just pretty stressed out. continue on fellas

I think what Justin was getting at, if your going to have an attitude then be consistent... like me or Justin.

Honestly if you going to keep the engine stock buy a larger turbo and make sure the turbo has a larger hot side. Don't worry about turbo lag. You engine is a high compression motor so it will spool the turbo just fine. Since the turbo is larger you'll want to run less boost like 6 instead of 8 etc, what you'll lack in PSI you'll make up in more flow... but more than likely you'll disregard any advice I have and go with the cheaper route which will be less reliable. Good thing the F series motors go for about 500 a pop.

[RaptorReed]

If you are able to find a 14g off a Conquest TSI you can go that route, they flow a bit more than a 14b, but a 14b is more readily available if you ever need a spare. 14Bs came on all 5spd 1st gen dsms (90-94', Eclipse GST/GSX, Talon TSI/TSI AWD, Laser RS).

Big 16Gs came on all Early Evos (1-3) and the Galant VR4 RS and Evolution(not in the US), however a 16G is a dime a dozen among the Mitsu and dsm community so finding one is relatively easy.
You can run the 16Gs at the same low level of a 14b if you want, you can boost up 22psi.

Flow rates of Mitsu turbos
TDO4-9B-6CM2 265 CFM
TDO5-12A-8CM2 320 CFM
TDO4-13G-5CM2 360 CFM
TEO4-13C-6CM2 360 CFM
TDO4L-13G-6CM2 360 CFM
TDO4L-15C-8.5CM2 390 CFM
TDO5H-14B-6CM2 405 CFM
TDO5H-14G-8CM2 465 CFM
TDO5H-16G-7CM2 505 CFM
TDO5H-16G-10CM2 505 CFM
TDO6-17C-8CM2 550 CFM
TDO6H-20G-14CM2 650 CFM
TDO7S-25G-17CM2 850 CFM
TFO8L-30V-18CM2 1200 CFM
Max Output:
TD05-14B (stock 1st gen) 275-300hp @ 21 psi
TD05-16G (small) 345-365hp @ 22 psi
TD06-16G (large) 365-385hp @ 22 psi
TD06-20G 430-450hp @ 22 psi
T25 (stock 2nd gen) 235-250hp

[CD5Accord]

I think what Justin was getting at, if your going to have an attitude then be consistent... like me or Justin.

Honestly if you going to keep the engine stock buy a larger turbo and make sure the turbo has a larger hot side. Don't worry about turbo lag. You engine is a high compression motor so it will spool the turbo just fine. Since the turbo is larger you'll want to run less boost like 6 instead of 8 etc, what you'll lack in PSI you'll make up in more flow... but more than likely you'll disregard any advice I have and go with the cheaper route which will be less reliable. Good thing the F series motors go for about 500 a pop.

Well thats why im keepign psi low for now, i might even go 6-7 even if i don't get a bigger turbo until i can put better internals in. After i start making the engine safer/more reliable then i will go bigger for now though i think i can keep it safe.

[2.5i]

Well thats why im keepign psi low for now, i might even go 6-7 even if i don't get a bigger turbo until i can put better internals in. After i start making the engine safer/more reliable then i will go bigger for now though i think i can keep it safe.

You didn't read anything I said did you? Believe it or not a larger turbo would most likely be safer than a even the smallest of small turbo's. Rather than listen to people who have turbo'd their honda's and had "reliable" setups, do some research on turbo'd airplanes... no joke. Now there will be some huge differences but you'll understand what I'm talking about. Most turbo'd planes dont push over 4 psi, but they do use some massive turbos simply for reason's I've explained.