View Full Version : Accord ignition
Domesticated
08-30-2010, 08:45 PM
Eriks H22 CB7. dont remember the ECU, erik will either pipe in or brandon will remember. it has a del sol distibrutor internal coil. dont wanna thread jack the steptoe thread. i have a new coil and igniter. hopefully ill have a trailer this sunday so well see.ive heard there is an ignition shut off switch if the engine gets too hot. sometimes it goes out the ignition cant work. anyway, any help would be nice, and echo i wouldnt mind you lending a hand to help out. id like some help from anybody. plan is, cb7 book, and prelude book. follow the wiring, try to fix it. well see.
2fast4usteeley
08-30-2010, 09:01 PM
i think if it is the stock ecu, its either a p06 or he could have a p28, damn! cant believe i didn't remember.
Domesticated
08-30-2010, 09:26 PM
i know he didnt have a p28
The ECU is a P13 (V-TEC), there is also a P14 wit it which is (non-V-TEC)
the overheating you are thinking of is the main relay...the soldier joints go bad in em...
Brian
08-30-2010, 11:53 PM
does it turn over but not start? If so, is probably the solder joint in your main relay. VERY common in Honda. I re-soldered the one in my DA.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelayoperation/badmainrelay.html
Domesticated
08-31-2010, 05:23 AM
ill look into that then
silver_echo
08-31-2010, 09:56 AM
okay, so if it is really common, then a small idea would be to try a "known good" one... just saying...
Domesticated
08-31-2010, 11:09 AM
you want to drive me from cda to moscow and back just to try a "known good" one. just because i dont know hondas like i know mopars doesnt mean i dont know how to work on cars in general. id rather have a couple ideas if im gonna drive down there again to work on it. but hopefully ill be bringing it up sunday on a trailer
silver_echo
08-31-2010, 11:25 AM
just making a suggestion...
Brian
08-31-2010, 11:54 AM
it takes about 5 minutes to repair a solder joint on the main relay if you know how to solder.
Take it apart and look at the joints and see if they are cracked. If they are then that is your problem. It's one of the most common and easiest "crank, no start" problem with Honda
90LXCB7
08-31-2010, 11:58 AM
Yeah, I'd bet money it's the relay. Just swapped one in the wife's car. It's kind of a pain in the ass to get to, it's up under the dash, behind the cruise control box. If I had more than 1 day off a week, I'd come over and help ya. But, Sundays are my only day off.
I can get you a site with the 1400 plus page Accord and Prelude manuals, if you'd like, they're free.
Let me know.
A b16 distributor will work on an h22. I believe that's the only b series part that'll work.
Domesticated
08-31-2010, 01:24 PM
ill take those manuals. upload them to my bb. well i have a new igniter and coil. oh well. i fix the relay first and kepp the originals in and keep the new ones for backup if thats the issue. and i can solder. i built a megasquirt last summer. sadly its still sitting in my closet
90LXCB7
08-31-2010, 02:04 PM
http://www.spoonertuner.com/manuals?Cat=119&Redirected=Y
There ya go. They don't take long to download and are a life saver. These manuals at a local parts store are over 500 dollars a piece, I send them to you with love, absolutely free :)
Brian
08-31-2010, 02:04 PM
Manuals (http://sites.google.com/site/joezlife/manuallinks)
Here is a link to a lot of Honda manuals
Trailer...Sunday, wohoo! :D
I'll have the title for you.
Domesticated
08-31-2010, 08:46 PM
Not for sure yet. I think the only way to get gramps to do it is pay for gas, buy lunch, and give him money for the casino
silver_echo
08-31-2010, 08:56 PM
not for sure yet. I think the only way to get gramps to do it is pay for gas, buy lunch, and give him money for the casino
lol!!!!!!!
Not for sure yet. I think the only way to get gramps to do it is pay for gas, buy lunch, and give him money for the casino
Well that could be relatively cheap or expensive, depending on taste. LOL.
BimmerboiM3
09-01-2010, 04:56 PM
Hey guys how's things been going? Is there any meets comming up?
2fast4usteeley
09-01-2010, 07:29 PM
Hey guys how's things been going? Is there any meets comming up?
hey no thread jacking man!:incazzato:
Domesticated
09-01-2010, 07:50 PM
yea man. not the right thread. go into the chat thread in the top of the chat section
Brian
09-01-2010, 07:51 PM
yeah! Sorry couldn't resist the urge to say it again.
BimmerboiM3
09-01-2010, 09:24 PM
sorry it's been a while since I was on and all I did was look for you lol.
Domesticated
09-04-2010, 11:51 PM
if its not the coil, igniter, or relay. ill pay someone to get the accord running. illkepp you all updated tomorrow night. and i noticed there is no tps sensor hooked up on the h, any reason for that?
Brian
09-05-2010, 12:39 AM
you have my cell number. Feel free to text me with any questions about it.
Domesticated
09-06-2010, 08:59 AM
found 2 cracked joints on the main relay. ill fix em up and see if the car starts after that
Domesticated
09-06-2010, 09:55 AM
AAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH ITS RUNNING!!!!!!!! sorry erik, it was just the coil. the main relay has been re maintained and its got a new coil and igniter now. and its purrin :) the relay was fine to begin with, still wouldnt start after that. so i replaced the coil and she started
AAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH ITS RUNNING!!!!!!!! sorry erik, it was just the coil. the main relay has been re maintained and its got a new coil and igniter now. and its purrin :) the relay was fine to begin with, still wouldnt start after that. so i replaced the coil and she started
Nice dude, the one I tried must have been a dead one or something. You got a good deal on the car, have fun with it :yesnod:
2fast4usteeley
09-08-2010, 09:47 PM
(cough cough)! lol didnt someone say it was the coil when we were there, i think i deserve some credit and a thanks for driving down.lol but you did fill up my tank, so ill take that as a thanks
Domesticated
09-08-2010, 10:23 PM
well i did originally say it was the coil but erik said it couldnt be. but i also did buy a coil later that day. but most of the thanks should go to jr cause he recomended i get an igniter cause both were bad. also thanks to jr for telling me to use the p13 and not the p14, i got my vtec now. still need to figure out whats going on with the o2
blackice
09-10-2010, 04:47 PM
throwing o2 codes or running rich?
Brian
09-10-2010, 09:48 PM
Ground Distribution diagram for the H22
90LXCB7
09-11-2010, 12:51 AM
No problem man. Glad I could be of assistance. I wish I was closer, we'd tackle that o2 wiring. I bet that's the issue. The wire colors may be off, so, the o2 sensor is reading mixed signals, or no signals at all. How's the gas mileage?
Domesticated
09-11-2010, 01:01 AM
thanks for that brian, ill check this weekend. codes, just a 43, fuel issue. gas milage seems ok, 80 miles needles at 1/8 tank. and new issue. the ground from the head/p/s pump as shown above gets stupid hot right after the engine starts. put the p13 in, vtec works sometimes, car runs slower than shit, shifts weird, no throttle response, an the cel stays on thw whole time when jumped. p14, the car runs like its got an f22 in it, shifts normally, steady, and about 6500 at wot, this ecu has the 43 code. car has the jumpy idle when cold, idles around 600-700. when driving for 5-10 minutes with the p14 the cel comes on. thats about all i can think of atm
90LXCB7
09-11-2010, 01:14 AM
What gauge wire is used? Maybe they need to be upgraded to a bigger size? I believe I have 8 gauge on mine and I've never noticed them getting warm??
Domesticated
09-11-2010, 10:12 AM
the same size
90LXCB7
09-11-2010, 11:34 AM
Do any of them look frayed or dirty? When I did my battery relocation, the ground wire from the battery to the chassis was frayed and soaked in dirt and oil. You could upgrade the big 3, that may help??
Domesticated
09-11-2010, 11:26 PM
so heres the skinny, ground wires went bad. caused too much buildup of discharge in the system from the ignition, igniter starts going bad, coil overheats finally cuts out. all the while the p13 had been overheating, circiuts going bad. i messed with the ground wires trying to knowck as much carbonates off it i could, then i sanded down the connection points and the wire no longer gets hot, and the car doesnt run like crap when its hot. im gonna test out the p13 tomorrow after i rebuilt all the ground wires, hopefully it runs like a champ, but i doubt it
90LXCB7
09-12-2010, 12:55 AM
Let me know how things go. I'll be outta town for a while in the morning, I should be back by 2 or so. But, I'll have my cell phone with me. So, text me if ya have any questions.
Domesticated
09-12-2010, 05:25 PM
yep p13 is donezo. now im getting an error code 9. damn. im gonna reset the ecu and get it timed and she how she runs then. currently searching for a new p13 now
90LXCB7
09-12-2010, 07:11 PM
Code 9 is a cylinder sensor. Not really familiar with that code
Domesticated
09-12-2010, 11:26 PM
so this a p13 for an auto
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-95-JDM-HONDA-PRELUDE-P13-ECU-OBD1-VTEC-AUTO-H22A-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563ed06c32QQitemZ37042 1034034QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
this is one for a manual, which is the one i have
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-95-JDM-HONDA-PRELUDE-P13-ECU-OBD1-VTEC-MANUAL-H22A-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563eae791dQQitemZ37041 8809117QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
and holy shit! i had no idea these were so expensive
Brian
09-12-2010, 11:49 PM
do you have a chip burner?
90LXCB7
09-13-2010, 09:01 AM
I thought the auto p13 had an extra plug. Are there any unused plugs coming off of your tcu? That would go from like the tcu to the ecu?
Domesticated
09-13-2010, 08:10 PM
no sir, mine only has 3 plugs all filled...
d112crzy
09-15-2010, 02:37 PM
I thought the auto p13 had an extra plug. Are there any unused plugs coming off of your tcu? That would go from like the tcu to the ecu?
The ecu that has an extra plug are the JDM ecu's. That plug is for 4ws or some gay bullshit. It WILL throw a CEL and there's a way to get rid of it but idk how cus I never cared to use a stock H ecu. Best way is to get a chipped ecu.
Josh, I'm supposed to be selling another p13 today. If the guy doesn't come through you can snag it up.
Domesticated
09-15-2010, 03:30 PM
so i set my dizzy at center last night and the car ran like shit. advanced it as much as possible and it ran better and acts like it wants more time. since the dizzy is keyed into the cam than the only way for it to be off is if the cam is off right? and it excells just like my neon did when the cam timing was off. im gonna check it today and hope its off. hey do you have a quote on a chipped p28 base mapped for a stock h22. idk if it will be cheaper for me to find a p28 and send it to you and have you send it back. it would probably be better if you just bought one, did the work and sent it to me
Brian
09-15-2010, 03:52 PM
it does sound like your timing if off.
The H22's have a horrible auto timing belt tensioner setup. If you have to take the timing belt off, I would suggest changing it over to a manual H23 tensioner setup. That maybe where the problem started if your timing jumped a tooth or 2.
Domesticated
09-15-2010, 07:38 PM
bought a timing light. uhh, i got nothing. no idea. didnt get a chance to check the cam timing. this is what i saw through the hole on the tranny
[I__I_i_____(i)__] so left is top of hole, right is bottom. there was a long line with a short line a few mm below it, then a few cm away there was one single mark around the "V" mark on the tranny. no three lines with one center "red" one. im lost. no more time to work on the car till saturday
d112crzy
09-15-2010, 09:21 PM
Definitely sounds like it could be a cam timing issue like I first had thought. You've been PM'd sir.
silver_echo
09-15-2010, 11:56 PM
bought a timing light. uhh, i got nothing. no idea. didnt get a chance to check the cam timing. this is what i saw through the hole on the tranny
[I__I_i_____(i)__] so left is top of hole, right is bottom. there was a long line with a short line a few mm below it, then a few cm away there was one single mark around the "V" mark on the tranny. no three lines with one center "red" one. im lost. no more time to work on the car till saturday
uhhhh, i think that brian will prolly correct me if need be, but aren't you supposed to look at timing at the front of the motor, i.e. the crank pulley?
Domesticated
09-16-2010, 12:46 AM
last i checked it was suppose to be on the flywheel
silver_echo
09-16-2010, 01:02 AM
last i checked it was suppose to be on the flywheel
i guess hondas must be weird... silly japanese people doing things backwards...
Brian
09-16-2010, 01:35 AM
if your not seeing a red line anywhere in the inspection window then your timing is off.
Did you make sure it was idling between 750-900 and that you jumped the service connector?
Domesticated
09-16-2010, 01:55 AM
yes sir. ill work on it some more probably sat morning and try to give some clearer detail. now that i think about it it runs exactly like the neon when i put the 2.4 in it. it was off by a tooth at least
depends...when i put my aftermarket flywheel in there were no timing marks on it...had to do it by ear...
it does sound like your timing if off.
The H22's have a horrible auto timing belt tensioner setup. If you have to take the timing belt off, I would suggest changing it over to a manual H23 tensioner setup. That maybe where the problem started if your timing jumped a tooth or 2.
im sure erik swapped that when he swapped the motor in...he is a smart cookie and knows a thing or two
Domesticated
09-16-2010, 07:50 AM
he said it was the auto tensioner
d112crzy
09-16-2010, 08:43 AM
uhhhh, i think that brian will prolly correct me if need be, but aren't you supposed to look at timing at the front of the motor, i.e. the crank pulley?
H and F Honda motors have timing marks on the flywheels. B/D have them on the crank pulley.
Only quality aftermarket flywheels will have the timing marks. Most ebay ones don't.
And yeah, Erik may be smart but he's also poor. :kiss:
90LXCB7
09-16-2010, 11:46 AM
I'd suggest swapping to the manual tensioner. It's about 150ish, but, if I remember correctly, someone said they found all the stuff for like 85. Well worth it, in my opinion.
Domesticated
09-16-2010, 12:17 PM
ill get around to it i guess.
Brian
09-16-2010, 12:18 PM
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=41997
90LXCB7
09-16-2010, 04:07 PM
I wish I would of known about this when I did mine. Oh well, life goes on!
Domesticated
09-20-2010, 09:54 PM
http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=41997
ordered along with a greddy timing belt kit
Domesticated
09-22-2010, 04:33 PM
damn fast shipping! i ordered it monday night and it was on my door this morning! now where the hell are my timing belts?
Domesticated
09-22-2010, 04:34 PM
oh and vtec works now, the engine is running perfect and strong! i only had to work out a billion little bugs bet now were good to go.
oh and vtec works now, the engine is running perfect and strong! i only had to work out a billion little bugs bet now were good to go.
:lawl: You'll have to take me for a spin.
Domesticated
09-22-2010, 10:56 PM
after i figure out to get the tranny to keep vtec for more that 500 rpms. it shifts at 6k-6.5k. sadness. but oh well, i never need to be up there anyway
after i figure out to get the tranny to keep vtec for more that 500 rpms. it shifts at 6k-6.5k. sadness. but oh well, i never need to be up there anyway
You'll be able to control that when you 5spd swap it. Hehe.
90LXCB7
09-23-2010, 10:09 AM
If it's the Accord trans, it won't happen. That's due to the longer gears. Get an h22 or h23 trans and that'll take care of your problem.
d112crzy
09-23-2010, 09:19 PM
If it's the Accord trans, it won't happen. That's due to the longer gears. Get an h22 or h23 trans and that'll take care of your problem.
Long gears has nothing to do with it shifting automatically. Shifting manually will solve the problem.
Also, I haven't mentioned anything about it yet, but leave the balance shaft belt off. One less thing to worry about. No cons to leaving it off, only pros.
Domesticated
09-23-2010, 09:53 PM
for real... that would have saved me nearly 80 bucks if you had mentioned it sooner. does it run just the balance shafts and nothing else? also if the bal shafts arent moving will oil still flow appropriately. cause if you can leave the belt off then why is there a delete kit?
blackice
09-24-2010, 12:38 PM
check my buddy shawn's (rosko) kit out for balance shaft blockoffs http://www.roskoracing.com/H_Series_Balancer_Shaft_Blockoffs.html
also note this applies when you block the shafts off "This kit also requires that your machinist presses out and rotates your balancer shaft bearings to block off the oil feed holes to the removed balancer shafts. "
d112crzy
09-24-2010, 02:32 PM
check my buddy shawn's (rosko) kit out for balance shaft blockoffs http://www.roskoracing.com/H_Series_Balancer_Shaft_Blockoffs.html
also note this applies when you block the shafts off "This kit also requires that your machinist presses out and rotates your balancer shaft bearings to block off the oil feed holes to the removed balancer shafts. "
Or you can buy the complete kit from www.kstuned.com
There's no loss in oil pressure, if that's what you're worried about. If anything, you might get a slight bump in pressure sine the balance shafts will "block" the oil passages.
Sorry I didn't mention it earlier. Totally blanked out.
Domesticated
11-03-2010, 06:49 PM
ok so new problem. car randomly turns off. then it starts right back up when i turn the key. it does it when and im driving, but will usuually start back up on its own if im moving fast enough, and its most annoying when im sitting at a light. im thinking the coil is overheating? idk how hot the distributor is suppose to be but it feels pretty hot. not as hot as the head, but hotter than the VC. i think i got the cheapest coil at the store just to get it running so that could be it. but before i go spend 100 on a coil i need some opinions.
silver_echo
11-03-2010, 11:39 PM
ok so new problem. car randomly turns off. then it starts right back up when i turn the key. it does it when and im driving, but will usuually start back up on its own if im moving fast enough, and its most annoying when im sitting at a light. im thinking the coil is overheating? idk how hot the distributor is suppose to be but it feels pretty hot. not as hot as the head, but hotter than the VC. i think i got the cheapest coil at the store just to get it running so that could be it. but before i go spend 100 on a coil i need some opinions.
just a thought, as i have come across this on an oldsmobile that my mother used to have, the big 100amp main fuse could possibly have failed in such a way that it acts as a circuit breaker... not saying that it is that, but it is something that i have come across before...
clarification question... does it always do it, or is it just once it has warmed up, warming up, etc?
Domesticated
11-04-2010, 12:33 PM
i mentioned randomly, because its random. id did it on my way to school this morning and i only live like 5-10 minutes away. but then ill drive to post falls and back and it wont do it for days
blackice
11-04-2010, 04:41 PM
not going to read back through the thread but did you get a new main relay for the fuel pump?
d112crzy
11-04-2010, 07:16 PM
Any codes?
Domesticated
11-04-2010, 08:56 PM
no codes, the cars main relay looks ok, i checked it out when i first started getting it running. fuel pump relay? didnt check. i guess this weekened ill check the solders on all the relays
d112crzy
11-05-2010, 09:47 AM
Fuel pump relay=main relay.
Check that all grounds are nice and tight. Does it hesitate to turn back on after shutting off or does it act as if nothing happened?
90LXCB7
11-05-2010, 11:46 AM
From what he's told me, it starts right back up. I was thinking a ground as well. Maybe even a connection in the distributor.
Domesticated
11-05-2010, 04:23 PM
it starts back up immediately. im gonna check out all my wiring tomorrow morning. any more ideas till then are welcome
Domesticated
11-06-2010, 02:52 AM
more info as mentioned before the car has weird accel issues. it has like slow accel, then nothing, nothing, bogging, nothing, then full throttle. did a test today, i threw it into neutral every time i came up to a light or stop sign today and it didnt die once. it constantly idled at 900, though when its in drive it always idels weird, heavy and sometimes dies
Domesticated
11-08-2010, 06:29 PM
ok so it literally does it all the time. i went most of the weekend without it happening, but today it was bad. it does it hot, cold, wot, cruising, stoped at a light, neutral, drive, and park. a new thing is my tach was going crazy whenever it started to happen. fuels working fine because its getting plenty of gas. ill look around h-t when i get done doing what im doing
Domesticated
11-09-2010, 12:50 PM
might have figured it out. the rotor and points were corroded pretty bad, which is carzy cause they were clean when i originally got the car running. also, one of the leads of the ICM wasnt tight on the connector and maybe when the engine was vibrating it would short out for a sec. idk, well see if fixing those problems works.
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